Wear safety glasses at all times while handling.
• Wear latex gloves and avoid getting product on skin.
• Plastic aprons can prevent product from getting onto clothing and soaking through to the skin.
• Avoid inhalation of any fumes from the product and use in a well-ventilated area.
MIXING: The proper ratio is 1-part hardener to 1-part resin. Improper mixing will cause soft or tacky spots in the surface.
• First, be sure you are preparing to mix containers of Hardener and Resin. Double-check your labels to ensure the proper materials are being mixed.
• Graduated mixing containers are recommended for measuring and mixing. Batches should not exceed 1.5 gallons total. If more than 1.5 gallons is needed at once make multiple small batches.
• Hand mixing with a paint stir stick is recommended. While mixing, stir continuously while also sweeping the sides and bottom of the mixing container. Do so in a fluid and steady manner, as it is important to mix without introducing air into the mixture.
• Total mixing time should take approximately 3 minutes.
• The product may cloud a little during mixing but will clear as mixing nears completion. After mixing is complete, allow the mix to stand 3-5 minutes. After 3-5 minutes, remix for approximately 30 seconds.
The completed mix should then be poured into a separate container for the final pour. Even with the most thorough mixing practices, there are still likely unmixed portions on the sides and bottom of the mixing container.
APPLICATION: Epoxy is self-leveling; therefore, the surface must be level for uniformity. First, a thin layer called a seal coat should be applied. The best way to apply a seal coat is to start on one end and pour the resin the length of the surface. Use a rubber squeegee or a foam brush to drag the resin across the entire surface and achieve a thin even coat. Allow 6 hours before moving on to flood coats. It is not recommended to apply more than 1/8-inch-thick per flood coat. The epoxy may be poured on the surface and spread with a plastic hand squeegee or a dust free foam brush. Thick films are achieved through multiple coats. Once the epoxy is applied to the desired thickness, tiny air bubbles will appear on the surface. To eliminate these bubbles, wait at least 10 minutes after application, and then pass the flame of a propane torch systematically over the surface while keeping the flame at least 6-8 inches from the surface. You are not trying to heat the surface, simply popping the bubbles with the exhaust gas. The same technique can be used with a heat gun. It will be necessary to repeat this process until the bubbles stop surfacing. You will now have a glass like surface. When re-coating within a 12 to 36-hour window no surface preparation is needed but it is recommended to wipe the surface down with denatured alcohol. The layers will bond together as one. Beyond the 36-hour window, very light sanding is necessary with some 180 to 220 grit sandpaper. After lightly sanding, you should wipe down the surface with a solvent such as denatured alcohol and let dry.Blemishes caused by contaminants or debris can be sanded out and recoated without compromising the clarity.
CURE TIME: Cure times will vary with temperature and thickness. Whitaker Klear Kote will be tack free in a 1/8-inch thickness at 77°F in approximately 8 hours. The epoxy will be ready for service after 24 hours. Even though the film will appear hard, the epoxy will not reach full cure for 14 days. It is important to not leave objects on the treated surface until the epoxy is fully cured. When used for bars or table tops any hot items like coffee cups, hot plates, etc., with temperatures over 140°F will leave a ring or impression on almost any epoxy. The use of saucers under cups and heat resistant pads under hot plates are recommended to preserve the integrity of the epoxy.